FAQs

A: First, check if the skimmer and pump baskets are full of leaves or debris, and if so, empty them out. Then check that the pool water level is halfway up the skimmer opening; low water can cause loss of prime.

A: Turn off the pump. Open the pump lid, fill the pump housing with water, reseal the lid tightly, and restart the pump. Make sure the pump lid O-ring is clean and the basket is seated correctly. (If the pump sits above the grade of the pool, it may take several minutes to prime).

A: Check these in order: Sanitation, Filtration, Circulation. Sanitation is mostly handled by chlorine content. Use a chemical test (strips or drops) and ensure that your chlorine is at a normal level (1-10ppm). Filtration can be affected by clogged filters (Cartridge filters should be cleaned once every 4-6 months and Sand filters should be backwashed once a week.) Poor circulation can reduce the effectiveness of both sanitizers and filters. Ensure that your pump is running on a regular schedule (100% for 8-12hrs a day or 50% for 12hrs and 75% for the other 12hrs) and is properly sucking water in at the skimmers, and pushing out at the returns. We are also available in-store for water testing if you need any assistance.

A: Maybe not. During seasons with large temperature swings (Summer and Winter) we experience large amounts of evaporation. It is not uncommon for a pool to lose ½" to 1” of water a day! First check for evaporation. Fill a bucket of water and place it next to the pool. Mark the water level of both and compare the water loss over 24 hours. If both levels drop the same amount, it’s likely evaporation, not a leak.

A: Ensure the pump is running at a high speed and you have good water flow. Most heaters have a minimum flow requirement. Additionally, confirm that the thermostat is set higher than the current water temperature. If the heater still won’t start, check the face of the heater for a 2-digit error code.

A: Before anything else, confirm that the cell is reading accurately (this can be done by an independent meter, salt strips, or a professional test). If the cell appears to be reading incorrectly, it likely needs to be cleaned. The blades of a salt cell both read salt level and produce chlorine. A dirty salt cell is unable to do either. A salt cell typically needs to be cleaned every 4 months, but this can vary significantly depending on chemistry balance, workload, and make/model of the cell (some cells may need to be cleaned once a month; others may only need to be cleaned once a year).

A: Not in most circumstances. All manufacturers program “Check Cell” lights to come on automatically at preset intervals, often every 500 run-hours, regardless of the actual condition of the cell. This means the light is usually a timer-based reminder, not a sign that something is wrong. If the cell is clean and the pool chemistry is balanced, you can reset the alert and continue normal operation. If the light returns immediately or the system isn’t producing chlorine, then further inspection may be needed.

A: Usually not. Most cleaner issues come down to simple flow adjustments or minor clogs. First, make sure both pumps are running and that you have strong water flow from the returns. If the cleaner still won’t move, it may have a small blockage or worn parts. Over time, gears and components can loosen and cause the drive system to slip. We service cleaners in-store and only charge for parts (no bench fee). In most cases, all it needs is a quick 10–15-minute tune-up.

A: Possibly, but most bubbling issues are caused by normal cavitation rather than a true air leak. When the pump runs at lower speeds, around 50%, it can trap small pockets of air in the system. When the schedule switches to a higher RPM, that trapped air gets pushed through the returns all at once, showing up as bubbles. A dirty filter or clogged basket can make this more noticeable, so be sure those are clean.
Q: One or more of my pool lights is the wrong color. Do they need to be replaced?

A: Not usually. Color-changing LED lights can drift out of sync and start showing different colors. The first step is to reset the entire system, not just the light circuit. Turn off all breakers for the pool equipment, wait at least 15 minutes to let the system fully reset, then turn everything back on. This full system reset usually brings the lights back into the correct color sequence. If they’re still out of sync afterward, the individual light may need service.